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Stefan Carlsson’s

Trumperter 1/200

DKM BISMARK

Hello guys,
I’ve had a longing for this project ever since I heard the rumor that Trumpeter would
make a Bismarck in 1/200 and now is the moment finally here
 

I will use the upgrade set from the Korean company MK1 Design and also try to make a full
photo build that cover most of the build sequence  So lets start with the pictures,

———————————————————————————————————————————————————-
The kit comes in a really big box


with some nice color profiles in the side


the contents of the box


The hull and the one piece deck


the deck has really nice details that will look very nice if you choice to paint it 

instead of using a wood deck.


and all the sprues, 
some of them come in multiple copies but I only photographed one of the sprues in those cases. So it is 
in
 reality more parts than you see in the pictures 
















One of four sprues with clear parts and the props.






Parts for one of the Arado float plane






the big parts for the superstructure






Nice details but some them will be removed and replaced with parts from the Mk1 set


The PE parts in the kit is really nice but as I will use the Mk1 set I think that I don’t will be using 
so many of them.




The instruction and decals


the instructions is very clear and straightforward


The paint guide 


And so on to the Mk1 Design update set.

Comes in a big envelope


The wood deck parts, they are really thin and comes with glue on the backside




and all the sheets of PE, there are three sheets of railing in the set but only one in the picture 








There is also one sheet with pre-painted parts 




and so all the brass parts, the turned main 38cm barrels and also five projectiles 


more barrels for the secondary 15cm and 10,5cm guns


barrels and lower parts for all the AA guns


main mast brass parts


more brass parts


The blast bags for the main and secondary gun turrets is made of resin


some more resin parts which some of them had come lose in the bag 


Decals for the air recognition sign, flags and markings for the Arado


Very nice instruction with color photos 


and also some sheets in b/w drawings


To give you an idea of the amount of details in this set, here is a close up on the parts for the Arado 
plane that will have a full PE interior, nice 





The set have the three propellers cast in white metal. I know, you have to paint them the same way as
with the plastic ones and nobody will ever see the different but it is the feeling and you 
at least know they is in metal 


The set also have the four anchors in cast white metal.


There is also new gun breech parts for the main guns. Even if I don’t use Trumpeter’s turned aluminum barrels 
so will this parts probably make the fit of the barrels easier.

 

That was all the parts, now can the fun begins 

 See you soon guys.
 
 
Stefan

 

 Part 1.
_________________________________________________________________________________________


The first thing I have done was to make the base plate. I have done it the same way as with my other
ship builds, 
pine base with milled wood strips on the side.
Here is the parts cut and sanded ready to be glued together.


and all in place,


the base have then receive a coat of mahogany stain and it shall now get several coats of gloss varnish.
The two pedestals 
is actually to keep a banister but I think they should work fine.


The ship is test fitted on the pedestals. 
I would need a bigger workbench   (or have choice a smaller kit )


The work on the kit starts with the the two piece bow.


The fit of the part on the hull may look a bit bad but when it’s sanded the joint blends in really well.




and after I have given the joint a coat of Mr Surfacer 500 and sand it again we have this nice Atlantic bow 


Next was to take care of the thin casting joints that is in the aft of hull. Maybe not so easy to see in the photo
but it’s a thin line around the hull.


There is also a number of 
shallow vertical sink marks on the side of the hull, they appear where there is a frame on the inside 
of the hull to glue the holder for the deck in. They are easy to sand out with help of a sponge.


As the last step I wet sanded the whole hull with a 600 grit sanding paper


Next I wanted to open up the seawater and cooling intakes and fitting them with a PE mesh.


to do this must I first cut off a bit of one of the frames as it is placed right over one of the seawater intake.


I first sawed a groove,


then goes the motor tool to work 


and last I use a thin sanding stick 


I drill a hole in each corner and the start to cut the panel out with a knife




and the result after the cutting and sanding of the intakes.


The PE mesh comes from the Polish manufacture Aber.


To get the size for the net I have use some Tamiya 40mm tape and just cut along the openings.


next I placed the tape on to the PE mesh and just cut it to size.


and after some fiddling so was all the mesh in place 


For the inside of the intakes have I made a simple box of plastic card and paint the inside of it and the side of 
the hull with Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black


and the box is glued in place.


Now have I only to repeat this on the other side   

 Part 2.

               ____________________________________________________________


All the water intakes is now done and and the two attachment points for the stand is also
glued in.


The attachments is done with 1,5 mm plastic card and glued to the hull together with the nuts 
with help of 2 components epoxy glue.


I have glued the side stabilizer fins to the hull just below the intakes.


The rear part of the propeller shaft house and also the shaft support 
is glued in place. I have
use a brass rod for guide and support when the glue dries.


For the next step will we involve a number of these small guys 


First have I drill out all the hulls portholes,


To glue the PE parts will I use thinned Gator Glue applied with a small brush,


The PE part is maneuvered in place,


and apply the glue and let the capillary force do the rest


The finished result on the bow portholes,


and the stern, next step was to replace the steps on the hull,


To have some kind of a guide when I drilling a small depression for the new steps have I use two strips of 
Jammydog tape,


and the drilling begins,


after the drilling was done have I removed the old molded steps,


Next was to glue all the tiny PE steps to the hull,


The first row is done,


And all the hull steps is done 



That was all for this part, see you soon 

Part 3.
           _______________________________________________

To protect the fragile PE steps in the stern have I made a simple cover for them.
You know how it is, it doesn’t matter how careful you are, those tiny parts will be knocked off
and you never will find them again, so I think this will help a bit  




Next step was to install the three frames that shall support the deck.




The very heavy injection inlet frames must be removed before I can mount the one piece deck on to the hull.


And the deck is placed on to the hull.


The fit is really very nice so I only use Tamiya Extra Thin to glue the deck to the hull.


Some strips of tape to help to hold the deck in place when the glue sets.


Before any painting was started have I checked if there was anything that shall be
removed from the deck to make the wood deck fit later. There was actually only these
little guys on the anchor deck that have to go.


As I was using primer paint from a spray can and my spray booth is way to small for this
giant, have I moved down in my basement workroom for the spraying of the primer.


And so was the primer on.


When so the primer was dry and I have taken care of some minor imperfections and re-spray
those areas was it time to mark out the water line area. 


I have been told that the water line on DKM warships was painted in a very dark grey color, not in black 
that I thought, 
have I 
choice to use Tamiya XF-69 Nato Black which is a very dark grey color.


The water line area was sprayed on free hand and the overspill will later act as a pre-shade
on both the top grey and red bottom color.


When the XF-69 have got a 24hrs drying time have I mask it of with 6mm Tamiya tape.


Next was to spray the pre-shade on the hull. For this have I use Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black.




Okaythis is where we are now and I will now continue with the painting of
the main colors, so this will be in the next part 

Part 4.
                       ___________________________________________________


I start the painting of the hull below the waterline and use Lifecolor’s Rot 5 Schiffsbodenfarbe.


I made a lighter mix of the original red color and spray it randomly over the bottom of the hull. Really hard to see in the 
picture, but it break up the monotone look in the big red area.
I have use my Badger Renegade Krome airbrush which have a .3 needle and will give a quicker and better coverage 
on this big hull 


Next was to cover the bottom part of the hull and airbrush the DKM 51 grey color.


Lifecolor’s Kreigsmarine color set comes with two shades of the DKM 51 paint so it’s easy to get a
tonal variation in the grey area.


Next to paint was the false bow and stern area, so on with the masking tape an kitchen roll 






The moment of truth, the masking is removed 


The false bow and stern area is painted with Lifecolor’s Dunkelgrau and I have also made a 
lighter mix of it, just to break up the monotone look of it.


The next step in the painting process was to mark out and masking for the black and white camouflage stripes 
on the side of the hull.




And more masking 


The white stripes are in place, they are actually painted in two shade of white, but it was 
hard to get it to show in the picture 


While the white camo stripes was drying have I done the false wave in the bow and the stern,
so more masking was done 


And the end result,




And back to the camo stripes, once again more masking work


And so, finally, all the painting was done, for the black stripes have I first use Tamiya XF 1 Flat Black
and then XF 69 Nato Black to break it up a bit.




Last in this part will I show you the propellers that I also have painted, first I spray them
gloss black with the primer from Alclad.


Then the Polished Brass paint goes on. I will give the propellers a light weathering later.


 Okay, that was all for this part, see you soon 

Part 5.
                  _____________________________________________

After the painting of the hull was done the next task was to give the hull
a coat of Johnson Klear.


For the weathering have I used Flory Models Dark Dirt wash. I applied the wash
as a pin wash around all the hull 
steps and vents.


The wash was removed with a moisten cotton bud in a downward movement.


And finished, the wash is not showing much now but I know it will be
more visible when the 
coat of flat varnish is applied.




For the flat coat have I used Vallejo’s Acrylic Flat Varnish and now is the wash a lot more visible 




After the flat coat have dry was it time to move on with the wood deck, to avoid a lot
of masking work later was it a good idea to paint all the deck details before the deck parts was mounted 


The first thing to do with the wood parts is to remove all the cutouts for all the deck parts.


The laser cut is really nice done but the thin protective plastic for the glue on the backside 
is not always cut through, 
so a little help from a knife is necessary.




And so was all the parts removed. I save all the bigger parts of the cutouts, 
might be good to have later, you never know 


The glue on the backside is really strong and bite really hard and quick on to 
the plastic deck, so it think 
it’s a good idea to remove the protection plastic sheet in small steps as you apply the wood part to the deck.


First I position the front part of the wood deck,


Next I move backward and lay down the wood deck on to the ship.


The fit of the wood deck is amazing but it needs a little push with a cocktail stick
to go down around all the deck details.


And here is the first part in place.


I think that the look of the deck is rather nice and I’m really impressed of the fit of the parts.


And all the wood parts in place.

 
And that was all for this part, see you soon 


 
Stefan