Applying the camouflage
During its service the Saladin was painted in various schemes, from all over bronze green to a bronze green and black camouflage.
I decided to paint mine in a Bronze Green and sand camouflage. The first thing I did was to mask over the engine and around the area where the turret fits.
I then applied a coat of Vallejo UK bronze Green surface primer.
As I had no plan to go by for the camo scheme, one thing I like to do is use an artists pencil crayon a lightly mark out the pattern of the camo.
In the next picture you can just about make out the crayon marks on the paintwork.
As the camouflage is hard edged I use some jammy dog masking tape to go over the crayon marks and then filled in the gaps with more tape.
I used Tamiya XF-57 Buff as the colour for the sand, thinned with 60% thinner. I also gave the Saladin another coat of Bronze Green.
I also did the detail painting such as the black on the grenade launchers and aerial bases.
After a coat of Klear to seal the paint in, I gave the whole model a wash using Mig Dark wash.
I start by put a small amount of wash around some of the raised details, then I take a round brush apply some white spirit on to the wash. This will soften the effect and helps you to move the wash around. By doing this the ash not only goes around the parts, it also acts as a filter and blends the two camouflage colours together
The final stage….Weathering
The weathering of the Saladin was kept very simple. British Army vehicles are kept in excellent condition however I wanted to replicate one that had been out in the Field for several weeks.
I started by applying some chipping to areas that would suffer wear and tear. For the first stage of chipping I mixed some Tamiya XF-57 Buff with a drop of white. This was then applied using a small piece of sponge to areas such as grab handles and on various edges. All you need to do is gentle dab the paint on.
For the next stage of chipping I applied some AK chipping colour paint again with a sponge over the previous chipping. This gives a 3D effect to your chipping.
Once the chipping was done it was time to move on to the dirt and grime.For this stage of the weathering I decided to use oil paints.
I placed a small amount of 502 Abteilung Dark Mud and Windsor&Newton Burnt umber oil paints on a piece of cardboard about 20mins before I started. By doing this the excess oil paint will be absorbed by the cardboard and will leave a matt finish to the paint as well as speed up drying time.
I put a few dots of both oil paints on to the model, then using a paint brush I work the oil paints into the surface of the model. Excess oil paint was removed with odourless artists white spirit.
In the next picture you can see the end result of applying the oil paints. They are very good at toning down decals. Also note that I have added the lenses to the lights, these came with the kit.
The next job was to weather the exhaust, exhaust silencer and its housing. From the pictures that I have seen, the top of the exhaust housing tends to rust along the top.
After masking around the exhaust, I airbrushed on some of AK Interactives old rust paint. I then took some of the paint and applied it with a sponge to add some chipping. I then rubbed some old rust pigment into the paintwork, only a small amount.
After a coat of matt varnish was applied, the rust effect was toned down by a coat of dust pigments.
In the picture above, you can se I had weathered the wheels. After painting the tyres with Tamiya NATO black, I used a combination of Mig Light European earth and dry mud pigments on the wheels. First I flooded the area where I wanted the pigments with Tamiya X-20A thinners which will act as a fixer. Then I sprinkled the pigments over the top. Once dry Excess pigment was removed with a stiff brush.
With that the weathering was done, it really was straight forward. I could have gone over the top on the weathering, applied loads of thick mud and cover it in splatters. I could have added more rust and gone overboard on the streaking. However with this model I didn’t think it needed it, my intention was to use the weathering to enhance the detail that’s on the model.
The final Reveal.
Here is a selection of pictures of the finished build,
Thanks to everyone who has followed my build and thanks for the very kind comments.